Frequently Asked Questions

INSTALLATION QUESTIONS:

Q: After I install the pathBlazer there’s interference and I can’t put the chrome nacelle or the fairing back on. What’s wrong?
A: All of the newer versions of P115W are small enough to fit in the smallest of nacelles. They have a pig-tail 3-pin plug. Your pathBlazer may be of the older design. There were “flat back” units available then.

Q: I am installing the splice-in version of the pathBlazer. Which wire on my bike do I cut?
A: The best source for answer is your Owner’s Manual. We have identified the colors for the most popular makes but even that can change from year to year. So, please refer to the Owner’s Manual and use a Voltmeter or a test light to be sure.

Q: What is this P43T expander? Do I need to order that as well?
A: No you do not have to buy it. It’s already on your bike. Essentially it accepts the H7 bulb with narrow spacing and expands the spacing to wider distance so it can be plugged into the standard H4 socket of the bike’s wiring.

Q: My bike has dual headlamps and they both work together. I installed the dual pathBlazer. With switch in hi-beam position, they will not modulate. Trying to reset the Sensitivity produces 8 flashes even with bright sunlight. What’s wrong?
A: The 8 flash indication is an error code. Since you are not setting the sensitivity in dark, it means that the Daylight Sensor is plugged in the Slave unit. Daylight sensor cable is required to be plugged in the Master. Reversing the Sensor and Synch wire plugs will solve the problem.

Q: I am installing P115W-H3-HD with two H9 adapters. I see two plugs for the headlight bulbs but only one of the input pins on pathBlazer. Where do I plug the second original socket?
A: Your pathBlazer requires only one input to drive both bulbs. The unused socket of the bike can be taped over and zip-tied safely.

OPERATION QUESTIONS:

Q: My pathBlazer won’t modulate in Lo-beam. Why?
A: All plug-in versions of pathBlazer are designed to modulate in the Hi-beam only. Even for the splice-in versions, we highly recommend for the Hi-beam modulation. It is much easier to control the modulation in daytime with the Hi-beam.

Q: I have installed my pathBlazer according to the instructions, but it won’t modulate. Why?
A: pathBlazer circuit is designed to be on by default. Properly connected and programmed Daylight sensor forces the unit to modulate. Check connections, including the splice-in versions for the correct polarity and make sure you are in sufficient daylight with Hi-beam on.

Q: I have installed the Dual Hi/Lo (DHL) version of pathBlazer, and I see that both Lo and Hi beam modulate in daylight. What will happen at night?
A: At night or in the dark, the modulation will cease and both beams will stay on steady – if the Hi-beam is switched on.

Q: I have installed the splice-in version of the pathBlazer and everything is hooked-up, yet the Hi-beam won’t even come on. What’s wrong?
A: A good ground connection is required for the pathBlazer circuitry to work. Without ground, or with an isolated ground point, the unit will not start.

Q: After I install the pathBlazer there’s interference and I can’t put the chrome nacelle or the fairing back on. What’s wrong?
A: The original socket for the bulb in many cases is quite large. You may have to release each of the female pins from the plastic housing of the socket and plug them on the pig-tail. This will eliminate the bulky socket.

Q: I have installed my pathBlazer according to the instructions, but it won’t modulate. Why?
A: pathBlazer circuit is designed to be on by default. Properly connected and programmed Daylight sensor forces the unit to modulate. Check connections, including the splice-in versions for the correct polarity and make sure you are in sufficient daylight with Hi-beam on.

LEGALITY QUESTIONS:

Q: Is this thing legal?
A: Yes, it is legal in all of United States and through out Canada. A summary of the Federal Code is printed on the inside cover.

Q: 20W-D doesn’t plug in properly in the socket. What should I do?
A: The integrated 20W-D unit has an indexed bayonet base, so it can only be inserted with correct orientation.
If the base feels too tight to be able to twist-in, you may have to file the solder bumps a little to reduce interference.
If the base feels too loose and makes intermittent connection, you can pull-up on the spring contacts of the socket to gain a little more retaining force.

Q: As soon as I turn the key on, the 20W-S comes on but applying the brakes doesn’t make any difference. What’s wrong?
A: There are two possibilities.
Check to make sure the socket on the bike is wired correctly. Hint: the brake voltage should be present at the contact next to pin closest to the base.
Or, the brake switch on the bike a bit sticky. This is usually the foot brake switch. tailBlazer is triggered by brake voltage with very little current. With the switch set too close to the foot pedal, a small amount of current can pass through. It may not be enough to turn a 27W tail bulb on, but it’s enough to trigger the tailBlazer.

Q: I have hooked-up the 100HD and when I apply the brakes there’s no flashing, only a high frequency flicker. What’s going on?
A: Most likely you have reversed the connections. Reversing the input/output will not damage the unit but the flash pattern will be inhibited.
Note! All splice-in tailBlazer models have the same polarity.

Q: I have hooked-up 100HD. When I apply brakes, nothing happens. What’s wrong?
A: The unit must be grounded to a good chassis ground. Remove any paint on the surface where you are attaching ground wire. You should have good metal-to-metal connection.
Note! All splice-in tailBlazer unit require a good ground connection.

Q: I have installed 25LED-D. The LED light-bar comes on with the ignition but there’s no flashing with the brakes. Is the unit defective?
A: If the lite-bar comes on with the ignition, it is working. The trigger voltage for the flash pattern requires 11.9 volts. You may have to start the engine and then apply the brakes to trigger the flash pattern.
Note! Above applies to 25LED-LT as well.

Q: I like the running light conversion feature of the 25LED-D but I also want my other brake lights to flash. Can I also install the 200GW?
A: Yes, adding the 200GW will modulate the trunk lights. Whenever there are multiple units installed, the flash pattern will be extended beyond the 4-second interval.
Note! The splice-in tailBlazer units as single input device do not have running light conversion feature but dual input units can also be added.

INSTALLATION QUESTIONS:

Q: Where is the turn signal relay on my bike? I can’t find it.
A: Please refer to your Owner’s Manual or the Wiring Diagram of your bike.
There are too many variations to cover. The relay could be integrated with kickstand interlock or the dash circuit board. It could be hidden under the gas tank or behind the dash.
When possible, for more popular models, we have identified the locations.

Q: I have 3-pin socket on the bike but only two pins are used. Do I need to install the 3rd pin?
A: Yes, the 3rd pin with a ground wire is supplied in the SM-3 package. It is required for the circuit to work properly.

Q: I have installed the signalMinder but it won’t flash, nothing comes on. What do I do?
A: If your signalMinder came with a ground wire, it must be attached firmly to a good ground location. Make sure the spot you have chosen is free of paint, doesn’t have any plastic washers etc. It should be a clean metal surface of the chassis or the use the negative post of the battery.

Q: My signalMinder plugs in properly and I have attached the ground wire but it won’t start the flashing. It’s stuck ON. What’s wrong?
A: The polarity of the socket on the bike may be reversed. Look at the diagram of the socket – bottom left corner of the product page – and compare. If you have to switch them, use a jeweler’s screwdriver to release the pins.

Q: signalMinder is different size and shape from the original flasher. How do I mount it?
A: You can leave the original flasher in its holder. Find a suitable location nearby and use the Velcro pad supplied to attach the unit.

Q: I have an 8-pin relay next to the fuses but I received a signalMinder without any matching plug. How do I hook it up?
A: The SM-3SV unit you received requires one wire splice. The original relay stays in place. Follow the instructions in the Installation Guide.

OPERATION QUESTIONS:

Q: I already have running lights in the front. Do I still have to hook-up the option?
A: You don’t have to, but hooking it up will enable the other built-in features of the signalMinder. Not only will you gain additional conspicuity in the back with two more lights, you will also have 4-Way flash and Escort mode flash capability.

Q: I have hooked up the Running Light option. And now the dash indicators are on all the time. What’s wrong?
A: The dash indicator bulbs are wired together with the turn signal lamps on your bike, so they will also stay on dimly. While using the turn signals, they will indicate properly by flashing brightly.<
If you do a lot of nighttime riding and the indicators glare bothers you, you can reduce the intensity with DIP Switch#1. If you have Euro version software, you turn off the running lights altogether.

Q: My turn signal switch comes back to center. Do I need to install the Return springs?
A: If you have already hooked up the Running Light option, installing the Return springs is the next logical step. The handlebar switch is electrically latched inside. Just because the outside lever returns to center does not mean it is in neutral.
Installing the Return springs gives you the freedom of not having to push the lever in to cancel, which is the same as releasing the latch.
Even after the push-to-cancel action is defeated with the Return springs, you can still stop the flashing by going back to the same side once more. The same-side-cancel feature is available if the Running Light connections are made.

Q: I have installed the Return springs. But now the turn signals will flash only if I hold the switch down. As soon as I let go of the lever, they stop flashing. What’s wrong?
A: You have not made the Running Light option connections. Without the Running Light option hooked up, as soon as the turn signal switch comes to neutral, there’s no continuity. signalMinder needs alternate paths, so it can supply the current to the turn signal bulbs